Adding a pocket can transform your bag from something pretty to something truly useful. It provides a place to keep your keys, cell phone, cards, etc. while also giving you a chance to add a fun design element.
Pocket sewing isn’t as intimidating as it might seem. A simple interior pocket can make all the difference.
Determine the Pocket Location
First, decide what you’ll put in the pocket and where you want it to go.
An interior pocket works well for smaller items, while an exterior pocket is best for frequently accessed items.
Consider Convenience
A pocket should be convenient to reach without getting in the way of the bag’s contents.
For example, a cell phone pocket would be better placed higher up so you don’t have to dig around to find it.
Select the Pocket Style
There are numerous ways to make a pocket.
Some are a simple patch pocket, while others may have a zipper, pleats, dividers, or even multiple layers.
Begin with the Basics
For beginners, a simple patch pocket is the way to go. Once you know how to sew a basic pocket, you can tackle more complex styles.
Determine Pocket Size
The pocket size depends on the contents.
A pocket for a tiny card holder will differ significantly from one meant for a cell phone.
Account for Seam Allowances
Remember that the seam allowances and hemmed edges take up space, reducing the usable pocket area. Be sure to factor in these seam allowances when drafting your pattern.
Add Interfacing if Necessary
Some materials aren’t firm enough to support the pocket well.
Interfacing is an option to increase stiffness.
Use the Right Support
A delicate fabric may need little reinforcement, whereas a sturdy bag may require a stiffer pocket. Just don’t overdo it and make the pocket too stiff.
Consider the Lining
Most interior pockets attach to the bag lining.
This can provide a polished look and strengthen the pocket.
Coordinate Fabrics
While the lining and pocket don’t have to match, you do want them to be compatible in weight and thickness. A heavy pocket fabric paired with a thin lining will look out of place.
Install a Zipper if Desired
If you’re storing something small and valuable, a zippered pocket is an option.
This takes more effort than a simple patch pocket, but it’s worth learning.
Experiment First
If you’ve never added a zipper, practice on a test piece before adding it to your bag.
This way, you can get the hang of it before working on the actual project.
Finish the Pocket Edge
The top of the pocket gets a lot of wear and tear.
If it’s not properly finished, it may stretch or fray.
Choose a Strong Edge Finish
Depending on the pocket style, you can finish the top with a folded edge, a facing, a lining, or topstitching. The edge should be sturdy enough to stand up to regular use.
Determine Pocket Placement Before Attaching
If you’re adding an interior pocket to a lined bag, double-check the placement before you close the bag up.
Once the lining is sewn together, it’s harder to move things around.
Measure Twice
Check the distance from the top and side edges. Make sure the pocket is either centered or placed where you want it.
Divide the Pocket
Sometimes, a single large pocket can be broken up into smaller sections.
This is helpful if you have a lot of things that you don’t want jumbling around together.
For instance, a pocket could be divided into compartments for your cell phone, pens, business cards, and house keys.
Wrap Up
A good pocket doesn’t just look great; it works well too. Figure out what will go in the pocket, select the right style and material, measure carefully, and reinforce the opening. When you’re ready, try zippers, multiple compartments, and exterior pockets to really personalize your bag.




